Touge 峠

If only Malaysia would have such a touge mountains for people to explore and examine their car's ability. Below are 3 cars manufacture from nissan which the 1st is the Nissan 180SX aka fei kai, 2nd car is Nissan Silvia S15 and the 3rd is Nissan 200SX. These the shots where they go for a touge journey huh.

The meaning of Touge:
Tōge (峠) is a Japanese word literally meaning "pass." It refers to a mountain pass or any of the narrow, winding roads that can be found in and around the mountains of Japan and other geographically similar areas.

Placing a series of s or bends in the steep roads that provide access to and from the high elevations of the mountains was intended to be a safety measure, usually to prevent commuters from reaching unstable speeds or creating excessive wear on the vehicles associated with them. It is therefore ironic that these same passes have become popular with street racers and motorsport enthusiasts in the last two decades, providing a dangerous and therefore challenging course where nightly competitions are not unheard of.

There are 4 types of Touge battles:-
Cat and Mouse/Sudden Death
- The lead car wins if the space between the cars increases considerably, while the following car wins if they overtake the lead car. If any car spins out or crashes, the other one wins the race.

- This is typically a sudden death format in that, in the event of the following car keeping pace, the race is usually rerun with the positions swapped. Once again the new lead car must pull away from the pursuer significantly, or the follower must overtake, to win and prevent another run.

- This method is often used when the road area isn't wide enough to allow passing, but if the car in front does indeed somehow get passed, the overtaken car automatically loses.

Straight up
- If the road is wide enough, this method comes into use. Instead of the lead and chase type of start, the cars are lined up next to each other. If there is a handicap in power, a rolling start would be used up until the 1st turn. Whoever is in front at the end of the "touge" road, is the winner.

Random battle
- A challenge is communicated through the use of the hazard lights. Then according to the road, use of one of the 2 prior types of battle.

Time Attack or Ghost Battle
- A Challenge in which one car is timed from start to finish, and the opponent attempts to beat the other drivers time. The opponents do not actually race at the same time.

- Stemming from this surge in popularity, the term has been pirated and misused by overzealous enthusiasts (often incorrectly as a verb) to erroneously describe almost any event involving street racing, even when there are no mountain passes involved.

- Another common mistake is the association of drifting with touge, implying at times that the words share a common definition. While drift is considered a style or form of driving, touge does not necessarily have any binding relationship to motorsports. Drifting can be used on the touge to prevent the chaser from following their proper line. For example if there was a chaser and one were to drift the drifter has now eliminated about 60 percent of the chaser's possible lines forcing them to choose slower lines that can be predicted. Also in doing this one can cause the chaser to slow down in order not to crash into the drifting car in front, which might cause complications due to keeping rpm's high and traction and all other variables to consider in slowing down for a corner.

- Touge in Time Trial format could be said to be a subset of Tarmac Rally. With the Rallye Monte Carlo and Tour de Corse demonstrating the parallel, separated only by cultural heritage.

Racing Babes!

Featuring Racing Babes! Below are some pictures where I taken from the internet to share with the automotive enthusiast out there. Feel free to check it out. Sometimes we do need some time to relax and check out the babes and not the car huh. Too much adrenalin on cars will make a person 'goyang'. So sit back and enjoy the pics ya.

Bikini Car Wash Babes
Superbike Babe

Japan GT Babe

Perodua Alza Advanced Version

Source by:

The highest specification level of the Perodua Alza is actually a model called the Perodua Alza Advanced Version, which is basically based on the Alza 1.5 Automatic Premium and Manual Premium but with a few additional specifications. You can book this now but delivery will only start in March 2010.

You basically get a new bodykit which consists of front, rear and side skirts and a different rear spoiler. On the inside, you get leather seat covers for all the seats, but the leather treatment does not continue onto the door trim. Also provided is a 5 inch touchscreen LCD which has a Windows CE-based GPS navigation system with a SiRF Atlas IV chipset and 500MHz CPU. The LCD also displays a feed from a 150 degree lense reverse camera.

Finally, there is tinted film for all the glass in the Alza which Perodua claims is GPS and SmartTAG friendly. Perodua states the specifications as following: 95% IR rejection, 99% UV rejection, 70% light for the front windscreen and about over 50% light for the rest of the glass. This tint has a 5 year warranty against peeling, oxidisation, cracking, discoloration and fading. I assume that as an OEM option this tint is also JPJ-approved.

The Alza Advanced Version manual goes for RM66,490 for solid and RM66,990 for metallic, while the Alza Advanced Version automatic goes for RM69,490 for solid and RM69,990 for metallic. The S. Metallic option is missing because the Alza Advanced Version only comes in three colours – Ivory White, Ebony Black and Classy Purple, while the only special metallic colour is Pearl White.

The Interior of the Front side
The Interior of the passenger Sit

Comparing between manufacturer

2011 BMW 5 Series

Following an earlier image leak, BMW has officially taken the wraps off the all-new 2011 5-Series Sedan. The 2011 model marks the sixth-generation of the venerable sports sedan. The 2011 BMW 5-Series Sedan will make its public debut at next month’s LA Show.

Developed under the codename “F10,” the 2011 BMW 5-Series softens the harder lines of the current E60 with more conventional-looking headlights and a cleaner front-end design. New European pedestrian safety standards are expected to drastically alter the design of many European cars for the worse, but BMW has managed to maintain its classic twin-kidney grille design with the new 5-Series while simultaneously reducing the length of the front overhang.

As is typical of most recent BMW redesigns, this 5-Series adds some space between the wheels by extending the wheelbase nearly 10 centimeters and widening the track. The car’s overall length has grown by less than 2 centimeters, while its height is slightly reduced and its width increased by a fraction. A set of 17-inch wheels are the smallest available with 18- and 19-inch wheels optional.

From launch the 2011 5-Series will offer one eight-cylinder and three six-cylinder gas engine options. Two diesel six-cylinder models will also be available.

The range-topping 550i model comes packing a 407 horsepower version of BMW’s turbocharged V8. As expected, BMW’s 306 horsepower turbocharged inline-six will be available in the 535i model. A 530d model is also be available — featuring a 245 horsepower diesel engine — should BMW decide to bring it to the U.S. The 258 horsepower 528i will be the entry-level model in the U.S.

Additionally, BMW will launch two four-cylinder diesel 5-Series models in Europe, with the most fuel efficient version being the 47 mpg (U.S.) 520d.

The next-generation 5-Series features an eight-speed automatic transmission with an all-wheel drive optional. The new 5 will also have Park Distance Control and an around view monitor system, similar to Infiniti’s Around View Monitor


BMW 550i
- V8 petrol engine with TwinPower Turbo and High Precision Injection
- Capacity: 4,395 cc, max output: 300 kW from 5,500 – 6,400 rpm
- Max torque: 600 Nm/442 lb-ft from 1,750 – 4,500 rpm
- Acceleration: 0 – 100 km/h in 5.0 seconds
- Top speed: 250 km/h
- Average fuel consumption to the EU standard:
- 10.4 ltr/100 km
- CO2 emissions to the EU standard: 243 g/km,
- full compliance with the EU5 emission standard.

BMW 535i
- Straight-six petrol engine with TwinPower Turbo,
- High Precision Injection and VALVETRONIC
- Capacity: 2,979 cc, max output: 225 kW at 5,800 rpm
- Max torque: 400 Nm from 1,200 – 5,000 rpm
- Acceleration: 0 – 100 km/h in 6.1 seconds
- Top speed: 250 km/h
- Average fuel consumption to the EU standard:
- 8.4 ltr/100 km
- CO2 emissions to the EU standard: 195 g/km
- full compliance with the EU5 emission standard.

BMW 528i
- Straight-six petrol engine with bi-VANOS and VALVETRONIC
- Capacity: 2,996 cc, max output: 190 kW at 6,600 rpm
- Max torque: 300 Nm from 2,600 – 5,000 rpm
- Acceleration: 0 – 100 km/h in 6.7 seconds
- Top speed: 250 km/h
- Average fuel consumption to the EU standard:
- 7.6 ltr/100 km,
- CO2 emissions to the EU standard: 178 g/km,
- full compliance with the EU5 emission standard.

BMW 523i
- Straight-six petrol engine with bi-VANOS and VALVETRONIC
- Capacity: 2,996 cc, max output: 150 kW at 6,100 rpm
- Max torque: 270 Nm from 1,500 – 4,250 rpm Acceleration: 0 – 100 km/h in 7.9 seconds Top speed: 234 km/h
- Average fuel consumption to the EU standard:
- 7.6 ltr/100 km
- CO2 emissions to the EU standard: 177 g/km,
- full compliance with the EU5 emission standard.

BMW 530d
- Straight-six diesel with aluminium crankcase,
- turbocharger with variable turbine geometry and common-rail direct fuel injection (piezo-injectors, max injection pressure 1,800 bar)
- Capacity: 2, 993 cc, max output: 180 kW at 4,000 rpm Max torque: 540 Nm from 1,750 – 3,000 rpm
- cceleration: 0 – 100 km/h in 6.3 seconds Top speed: 250 km/h
- verage fuel consumption to the EU standard: 6.2 ltr/100 km
- O2 emissions to the EU standard:
- 162 g/km,
- full compliance with the EU5 emission standard.

BMW 520d
- Straight-four diesel with aluminium crankcase, turbocharger with variable turbine geometry and common-rail direct fuel injection
- (magnetic valve injectors, max injection pressure 1,800 bar)
- Capacity: 1,995 cc, max output: 135 kW at 4,000 rpm Max torque: 380 Nm from 1,900 – 2, 750 rpm
- Acceleration: 0-100 km/h in 8.1 seconds (provisional),
- Top speed: 225 km/h (provisional)
- Average fuel consumption to the EU standard: 5.2 ltr/100 km
- CO2 emissions to the EU standard: 137 g/km (provisional),
- full compliance with the EU5 emission standard.

Sound Proof-ing your Ride

Source by:

Solid Quietness Makes Driving A Pleasure
Feeling irritated while driving due to the excessive noise from the road? Unsatisfied with the bass produce by your speaker? Feeling unsecured with noise coming in from the thin metal body of your car?

All of this could come to an end with this Sound Proofing Mat.
Benefits of Sound proofing
• Reduce excessive noise created by the road from the car tyres.
• Reduce significantly on exhaust sound when stick on the correct area.
• Increase solidness of the car body such as doors, bonnet and other parts of the car.
• Increase the production of bass from your car speaker.
• Reduce vibration of door panels if correct installation had been done to the doors.

Installation guide:
• Clean the surface of the area that is intended to be sound proof.
• Measure the length of area that is intended to stick and cut it.
• Remove the paper and stick it accordingly to your preference (just like double sided tape)
• Use a cloth or a flat roller to press the mat on to the surface that has been stick.
• Pack your stuff to feel the differences

• Ensure that the surface of installation to be done are free from oil, grease, dirt & others in order to obtain good adhesiveness.

Types of Sound Insulation / Sound Proof
Sound insulation for cars comes in three basic forms:

Bonnet insulators
– these comprise foam rubber backed on one side by a woven cloth (or aluminised polyester) and on the other with pressure adhesive. As the name suggests, they’re suitable for mounting under bonnets and also under bootlids.

Noise barriers– these materials use compressed layers of cotton-waste (or similar) sandwiching a thin layer of bitumen. They’re used both to absorb noise and also to prevent noise transmission. They can be mounted on the firewall within the cabin (ie under the carpet), under the boot carpet and behind the rear seat in booted sedans. This noise insulation is held in place with applied contact adhesive.

Anti-vibration materials– these insulators comprise low resonance (acoustically ‘dead’) materials which are designed to stop panel vibration. In use they’re glued to the panels. It is important that the join between the insulator and the panel is continuous, with large amounts of contact adhesive therefore needed.

What is Sound Proofing? How Can I do It In With My Car?
Sound Proofing starts with some means of damping. A number of products are available for this, and they all have various degrees of effectiveness. The best results are always obtained from using a combination of these products. There are mats, sprays, foams, and insulation available from a number of manufacturers

- Mats are usually either Styrene-Butyadine-Rubber or asphaltic sheets backed with an adhesive of some type (although other materials are used in some cases). Installing mats in your vehicle is a simple way to reduce vibration, and is effective as well. The way mats work is that they are used to cover panels. The material they are made of absorbs vibrations in the panels, and turns them into heat, or it may simply lower the resonant frequency of the panel. Mats can also be placed between panels to reduce the amount of vibration between the two panels when they are in close contact. Many times, the mats will also have a metal foil backing to improve the heat resistance of the matting (thus allowing you to use it in an engine compartment). The matting also adds weight to a panel, reducing it’s tendency to vibrate in the first place. Some of the more popular mats are Dynamat and Road Kill, but there are alternatives.

- Sprays are also used for damping. These sprays normally come in a professional can, which require a compressor and paintgun to apply, but many companies are starting to market aerosol cans of sound deadener spray. The spray is often used in places where matting would either be too difficult, or would add too much weight/bulk. Door panels are the most common application for sprays, as well as highly irregular crevices (like inside kickpanels). Sprays are suitable for large panels as well, but they tend to be messy, and require taping/masking off of upholstery and windows.

- Foams come in two forms: Sheets of foam, and foam sprays. The sheets of foam are used much like mats are; They are laid over panels to reduce and absorb vibration. Unlike mats, which absorb the vibration and convert it to heat energy, foam sheets disperse the vibrations throughout, reducing its total energy. Foam sprays are used to fill in crevices. As they dry (or rather, cure), they expand slightly, pressing against the nearby panels. The individual cells help to disperse energy away from the vibrating panel, and absorb them. Foams can be expensive as well, and there is a low cost alternative here, as well. The first is Styrofoam©, which can be obtained in a spray can. Styrofoam© is the brand name for the polystyrene foam we are all familiar with (and somewhat annoyed by at times). The fumes given off by Styrofoam© are noxious, and many communities have laws banning its use due to environmental concerns. Another alternative is insulating foams like Great Stuff©, which is used in home construction. Great Stuff© is cheap, fireproof when cured, and readily available at any hardware store for about three dollars a can. Great Stuff© is also shapeable when it cures, and can be used to smooth sharp corners. The downside to Great Stuff©, like Ice Guard, is that it is messy. Once Great Stuff© is sprayed on upholstery, your clothes, your skin, etc, it’s all over. You hands will be stiff and sticky for days, if not weeks, and your clothes are forever ruined. Great Stuff© also expands voraciously, so spray it carefully.

- Finally, there is insulation. Jute is the most common insulation. It is laid under carpets in both cars and houses, and is basically a thick mat of fibers which absorb sound. Though less effective than the other methods, it adds a plushness to carpets, and has very good thermal insulation. Micro Jute is recommended, because it’s much thinner than jute, and has about the same level of effectiveness. Jute or Micro Jute can be gotten from a number of manufacturers, and is available at any carpet supply store.

Alternative area / Budget Area:
First of all sponge is not gonna work. If you want to DIY super cheap, get the Insuflex from KHGuan (I think RM15+ a large sheet) and cable tie the thing (or glue it). If you want a medium alternative go to KFAudio and ask them to use Sikadamp (RM30 a piece) or go to Soundblok and ask them to quote on their stuff. If you want ultimate dampening get Dynamat Extreme which sells from RM60 to RM100 a piece and front doors only required 3 pieces to cover (meaning approx 6 to 7 pieces for 4 doors).

Otherwise mix and match. Doors use Dynamat, floor use soundblok, roof use Insuflex, bonnet use Insuflex, Boot use Dynamat. As for rust, there’s no guarantee on the glue whether it’ll rust or not. But Dynamat, Sikadamp, soundblok and many of those bitumen-based-stick-on stuff don’t cause rust. Insuflex is just a spongy type of material and needs to have something to keep it there. That audiotech fischer stuff is good stuff too. But obviously for that price you have many other options. The most important difference is that paste is not removable. Dynamat extreme and Sika and all are removable.

Dynamat Official website:

Rim Offset Information

The offset of a wheel is the distance from its hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel. The offset can be one of three types.

Zero Offset
The hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel.

The hub mounting surface is toward the front or wheel side of the wheel. Positive offset wheels are generally found on front wheel drive cars and newer rear drive cars.

The hub mounting surface is toward the back or brake side of the wheels centerline. "Deep dish" wheels are typically a negative offset.

If the offset of the wheel is not correct for the car, the handling can be adversely affected. When the width of the wheel changes, the offset also changes numerically. If the offset were to stay the same while you added width, the additional width would be split evenly between the inside and outside. For most cars, this won't work correctly. We have test fitted thousands of different vehicles for proper fitment. Our extensive database allows our sales staff to offer you the perfect fit for your vehicle.

The meaning of PCD? PCD stands for pitch circle diameter and is the diameter of a circle drawn through the centre of your wheel’s bolt holes. P.C.D. is measured in millimeters and also indicate the number of studs or bolts the wheel will have. Proton Alloy Wheels are usually either 4×100: i.e. 4 bolt holes drilled through the centre of an imaginary 100mm circle.

- The offset, measured in millimeters, can be negative or positive, and is the distance from the hub-mounting surface to the rim’s true centerline. A positive offset means the hub-mounting surface is closer to the outside edge of the wheel, i.e. the wheel wraps around the hub and brake hardware more deeply; a negative offset means the hub-mounting surface is closer to the inside edge of the wheel and wheel sticks outwards more than inwards.

- Negative Offset wheels have their mounting face toward the rear of the wheel - powerful rear-wheel drive cars often have wheels with negative offset. This is the contributing factors of being a bigger “lips” rim.

- When selecting aftermarket wheels, a wheel with too little positive offset will be closer to the fender, and one with too much positive offset will be closer to the suspension components. Wheel width, offset and tire size all determine the way a particular wheel/tire combination will work on a given car.

- To maintain handling characteristics and avoid undue loads on bushings and ball joints, the car manufacturer’s original offset should be maintained when choosing new wheels unless there are overriding clearance issues.

- Offset also affects the scrub radius of the steering and it is advisable to stay within the limits allowed by the vehicle manufacturer. Because wheel offset changes the lever-arm length between the center of the tire and the centerline of the steering knuckle, the way bumps, road imperfections and acceleration and braking forces are translated to steering torques (bump-steer, torque-steer, etc) will change depending on wheel offset. Likewise, the wheel bearings will see increased thrust loads if the wheel centerline is moved away from the bearing centerline.

- The center bore of an alloy wheel is the size of the hole at the back of the wheel which the hub fits into. To help the wheels to seat properly this hole needs to be an exact match to the size of the hub. Please refer to the first picture above this articles.

- Some factory wheels have a centerbore that matches exactly with the hub to reduce vibration by keeping the wheel centered. Wheels with the correct centerbore to the car they will be mounted on are known as hubcentric. Hubcentric wheels take the stress off the lug nuts, reducing the job of the lug nuts to center the wheel to the car.

- Wheels that are not hubcentric are known as lugcentric, as the job of centering is done by the lug nuts assuming they are properly torqued down. Centerbore on aftermarket wheels must be equal to or greater than that of the hub or the wheel cannot be mounted on the car. Many aftermarket wheels come with “hubcentric rings” that lock or slide into the back of the wheel to adapt a wheel with a larger centerbore to a smaller hub. These adapters are usually made of plastic but also in aluminium.

Wheel Offset Calculator @