Vip Style Proton Perdana ( Side View )
Vip Style Proton Perdana ( Rear View )
Vip Style Honda Jazz
Check out the slide show for the cars taken on that Autoshow.
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How a Turbo Charger Works?
A turbo charger is designed to improve the power output of an engine beyond its normal operating capacity. A normally aspirated engine uses a mixture of air and fuel that is pulled into it from vacuum created by the cylinders. A turbo charger increases the amount of air injected into the engine, which also allows more fuel to be injected. This increase provides a higher power output.
Turbo Charger
A turbo charger utilizes a turbine which is driven by hot engine exhaust, when these gases expand it will spin the turbine at high speeds, which forces air into the engine. Engine oil is used to cool and lubricate the turbine shaft in the turbo housing. In some applications, an Inter-Cooler is used to cool the intake charge before it enters the engine, thus increasing horsepower.
Inside a Turbo Charger
To help regulate the air intake pressure a device called a waste-gate is designed to release boost at a measured pressure point. This is done to limit the amount of boost the engine receives; if the engine is boosted too much it can cause internal engine failure. A turbo charger increases the compression of the engine, so to combat engine ping (detonation) low compression pistons are installed. Turbo chargers help reduce the amount of fuel that is required to achieve the same level of power.
Turbo Waste Gate (cut away)
A turbo charged engine requires oil changes be more frequent than a non-turbo charged engine. The turbo charger will break oil down sooner because of the added stress on the engine. When a turbo charger has failed it can cause the engine to have less power and burn oil excessively. A regular maintenance routine for a turbo charged vehicle will ensure proper operation and have less risk of breaking down, as well as damaging components.
A turbo charger utilizes a turbine which is driven by hot engine exhaust, when these gases expand it will spin the turbine at high speeds, which forces air into the engine. Engine oil is used to cool and lubricate the turbine shaft in the turbo housing. In some applications, an Inter-Cooler is used to cool the intake charge before it enters the engine, thus increasing horsepower.
To help regulate the air intake pressure a device called a waste-gate is designed to release boost at a measured pressure point. This is done to limit the amount of boost the engine receives; if the engine is boosted too much it can cause internal engine failure. A turbo charger increases the compression of the engine, so to combat engine ping (detonation) low compression pistons are installed. Turbo chargers help reduce the amount of fuel that is required to achieve the same level of power.
A turbo charged engine requires oil changes be more frequent than a non-turbo charged engine. The turbo charger will break oil down sooner because of the added stress on the engine. When a turbo charger has failed it can cause the engine to have less power and burn oil excessively. A regular maintenance routine for a turbo charged vehicle will ensure proper operation and have less risk of breaking down, as well as damaging components.
How a Muffler Works?
The muffler in your vehicle serves one main purpose; to quiet the natural sound made by internal combustion engines. Mufflers come in all sizes and applications, from the stock quiet one, to the throatier sound of a performance muffler. There are basically two types of mufflers; noise canceling and material packed. In the noise canceling (usually performance) barriers are welded into the muffler to reflect the sound back into itself to cancel it out. In a material style there is a packing, usually around a perforated tube that dampens the sound.
Muffler Cut Away
Paint My Ride Contest
As you can see from the image above, this is the paint my ride contest offered by Naporee - Poverty Reduction Initiative. It's time to get your creative juices flowing! Design an outer skin for a Lamborghini Gallardo and stand a chance to win the grand prize of RM5,000. The top designs will be shown to a panel of award winning judges to be selected. The competition is split into 2 categories, the first being the student category where all participants must be 18 Years old and above, Studying in the design field. Entry fee for the student category is stated to be RM150 per person. The professional category on the other hand has an open age group but are for those of you who are working in field of design with an entry fee of RM350 per person.
The submission deadline ( entries are to be sent via email ) is set to March 31st 2010. For more information about the competition, log on to http://naporee.com/contest.html
Source by: http://naporee.com/contest.html
Nissan Navara
Nissan Navara
2 x Lightforce 240 HID
5 x Lightforce 170 striker
4 x Lightforce 140 lance
2 x 140 Clear Combo filter
2 x 140 Dispersion filter
2 x 170 Blue Combo filter
2 x 240 Clear Combo filter
RAW nitro 4x4 suspension lift
Nissan Navara Specification
Performance, emissions & economy
Top speed (mph): 105
0-62 mph (seconds): 11.8
Urban mpg: 23.9
Extra urban mpg: 32.8
Combined mpg: 28.8
CO2 (g/km): 264
Dimensions & weights
Length (mm): 5220
Height (mm): 1776
Width (mm): 1850
Wheelbase (mm): 3200
Front track (mm): 1570
Rear track (mm): 1570
Gross weight (kg): 3210
Kerb weight (kg): 2135
Max. braked trailer weight (kg): 750
Max. unbraked trailer weight (kg): 2600
Fuel tank capacity (litres): 80
Engine & transmission
Engine: Four-cylinder turbocharged diesel engine, inline, mounted longitudinally in front. Designation: YD25DDTi. Variable geometry turbocharger and intercooler. Iron cylinder block. Aluminium cylinder head.
Management: Emissions controlled to Euro IV.
Cubic capacity (cc): 2488
Compression ratio: 16.50:1
Bore x stroke (mm): 89.00 x 100.00
Valve gear: Four valves per cylinder. Double overhead camshafts. Chain driven camshafts.
Max. power (bhp): 169 at 4000 rpm
Max. torque (lb.ft): 297 at 2000 rpm
Transmission: Six-speed manual. Part-time, selectable four-wheel drive.
Gear ratios:
1st: 4.692:1
2nd: 2.705:1
3rd: 1.747:1
4th: 1.291:1
5th: 1.000:1
6th: 0.827:1
Reverse: 4.260:1
Final drive: 3.692:1
Transfer ratio: 2.625:1
Chassis & running gear
Front: Double wishbone with coil over strut.
Rear: Rigid leaf spring.
Steering: Power assisted rack and pinion steering. 3.8 turns lock-to-lock.
Turning circle diameter (m): 13.30
Brakes: Dual circuits: front and rear distribution, power assisted, ABS. Front: 320x28mm ventilated discs. Rear: 295mm drums.
Wheels: 7JJ x 17-inch alloys.
Tyres: 255/65 R17.
How a Clutch Fan Works?
The engine cooling fan system in your car is designed to move air through the radiator when the vehicle is at slower speeds or stopped. This air flow removes heat from the coolant created by the engine using the radiator as a conductor. A clutch fan was developed in the late 1960's and was in full production by the early 1970's. The clutch fan was designed to save engine energy, in turn helping improve engine gas mileage. Before the clutch fan, an engine was subject to a fixed style of fan that was directly bolted onto the engine. This direct style of fan is not only inefficient it produced excess noise that was undesirable. A clutch fan has the ability to disengage when not in use allowing the engine to work more efficiently while decreasing fan noise.
Engine Fan Clutch (fan blade not attached)
When a clutch fan fails it causes the coolant to retain heat, forcing the engine to run hot and eventually overheat. A clutch fan is engaged and disengaged from operation by the heat produced from the radiator. This fan clutch is constructed using a silicon grease and temperature sensitive coil spring that expands and contracts with heat. As the spring absorbs heat it expands engaging the clutch fan utilizing engine power to drive the fan. As the engine coolant cools the fan clutch will disengage. A clutch fan can fail one of two ways, it can either lock the fan to the clutch causing poor mileage and a whirring sound, like an airplane is taking off next to you. Or the silicon grease can start to leak causing the fan clutch not to lock up allowing the fan to "freewheel", failing to pull air through the radiator when needed.
Basic Checks
To check a fan clutch condition the engine must be off. Inspect the fan clutch for leakage at the front or rear of the unit (input shaft and temperature controlled expansion spring). If leakage is observed the fan clutch has failed and needs replacing. Next, take the fan blade and turn it, the fan blade should free wheel, if you cannot turn the fan blade the clutch has locked up and needs to be replaced. Also, there should be no or very little play as you turn the fan, if excess play exists replace the fan clutch.
How to Replace a Clutch Fan
* Start with the engine off and in cool condition
* Remove all obstructing shields or brackets to gain access to the fan clutch
* Loosen and main mounting bolts that mount he fan clutch to the water pump
* Remove all related drive belts and finish removing the fan clutch mounting bolts
* Remove the fan clutch and loosen fan mounting bolts
* Separate the fan from the clutch, reassemble as needed.
Source By: http://www.2carpros.com/how_does_it_work/how_a_clutch_fan_works.htm
When a clutch fan fails it causes the coolant to retain heat, forcing the engine to run hot and eventually overheat. A clutch fan is engaged and disengaged from operation by the heat produced from the radiator. This fan clutch is constructed using a silicon grease and temperature sensitive coil spring that expands and contracts with heat. As the spring absorbs heat it expands engaging the clutch fan utilizing engine power to drive the fan. As the engine coolant cools the fan clutch will disengage. A clutch fan can fail one of two ways, it can either lock the fan to the clutch causing poor mileage and a whirring sound, like an airplane is taking off next to you. Or the silicon grease can start to leak causing the fan clutch not to lock up allowing the fan to "freewheel", failing to pull air through the radiator when needed.
Basic Checks
To check a fan clutch condition the engine must be off. Inspect the fan clutch for leakage at the front or rear of the unit (input shaft and temperature controlled expansion spring). If leakage is observed the fan clutch has failed and needs replacing. Next, take the fan blade and turn it, the fan blade should free wheel, if you cannot turn the fan blade the clutch has locked up and needs to be replaced. Also, there should be no or very little play as you turn the fan, if excess play exists replace the fan clutch.
How to Replace a Clutch Fan
* Start with the engine off and in cool condition
* Remove all obstructing shields or brackets to gain access to the fan clutch
* Loosen and main mounting bolts that mount he fan clutch to the water pump
* Remove all related drive belts and finish removing the fan clutch mounting bolts
* Remove the fan clutch and loosen fan mounting bolts
* Separate the fan from the clutch, reassemble as needed.
Source By: http://www.2carpros.com/how_does_it_work/how_a_clutch_fan_works.htm
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